Evening Standard: Design hotspot – M Restaurant, Threadneedle Street, Bank

M Restaurants - Evening Standard

The steak house has quickly become a Square Mile favourite with more branches under its belt.

The look: Palatial City slicker playground, complete with two restaurants, cocktail bar, card-operated wine vending machines, members’ den and private dining rooms. The steak is the star here, showcased on chrome pedestals within giant glass meat lockers, but the arty light fixtures do a good job of drawing eyes away from the restaurant’s raison d’etre. Dark wood throughout the cavernous venue lends an atmosphere of gentlemanly machismo, while the light grey leather of M Raw – sushi, sashimi and tartare emporium – provides a couple-focused contrast.

Who’s behind it? Martin Williams, former MD of Gaucho, who successfully pinched Jarad McCarroll from hipster haven Chiltern Firehouse before remixing the menu under the aegis of executive chef Michael Reid. Building on the success of his Square Mile behemoth, Williams has dialled down the City boy swagger for M in Victoria, which opened in January. A third site is planned for Soho or Mayfair.

What should I try? Kangaroo tartar, mixed with mushrooms egg yolk and nasturtium, is the pick of the starters: rich, marshmallow soft and the perfect accompaniment to a post-work glass of red. However, the world-class steak is what you’re here for. Choose from Japanese Kobe, South African rib-eye, French striploin, Argentinian rump, American USDA prime or Australian Wagyu.

Go there if: You’ve clients to impress, fancy a smart night out, or simply want to savour some of the finest flesh to be found in the capital.

How do I book?

Nearest tube: Bank


Source: Evening Standard